Everything about Potomac River totally explained
The
Potomac River flows into the
Chesapeake Bay, located along the mid-
Atlantic coast of the
United States (USA). The
river is approximately 383
statute miles (665
km) long, with a
drainage area of about 14,700 square miles (38,000 km²). In terms of area, this makes the Potomac River the fourth largest river along the Atlantic coast of the USA and the 21st largest in the USA. Over 5 million people live within the Potomac
watershed, where
precipitation provides the equivalent of over 8 m³ (more than 2,100 US
gallons) of water per person per year.
Geography
The river forms part of the borders between
Maryland and
Washington, D.C. (the District of Columbia) on the left bank and
West Virginia and
Virginia on the river's right bank. The entire lower Potomac River is part of the State of Maryland, with the exception of a small tidal portion within the District of Columbia. Except for a small portion of its headwaters in West Virginia, the
North Branch Potomac River is considered part of Maryland to the low water mark on the opposite bank. The
South Branch Potomac River lies completely within the state of West Virginia except for its
headwaters, which lie in Virginia.
The Potomac River runs 383 miles (616 km) from the
Fairfax Stone in West Virginia to
Point Lookout, Maryland and drains 14,679 square miles (38,018 km²). The average flow is 10,800
ft³/s (306 m³/s). The natives called the river above the falls
Cohongarooton, translated as "river of geese", and that area was renowned in early years for an abundance of both geese and swans. The spelling of the name has been simplified over the years from "Patawomeke" (as on
Captain John Smith's map) to "Patowmack" in the 18th century and now "Potomac". Some scholars have also suggested its a rooted in the ancient
Greek for river, "potamos", blended with the Powhatan name "Patawomeke". The river's name was officially decided upon as Potomac by the
Board on Geographic Names in 1931.
The Potomac River brings together a variety of cultures throughout the watershed from the coal miners of upstream West Virginia to the urban residents of the nation's capital and, along the lower Potomac, the watermen of Virginia's Northern Neck.
Being situated in an area rich in
American history and American heritage has led to the Potomac being nicknamed "the Nation's River."
George Washington, the first
President of the United States, was born in, surveyed, and spent most of his life within the Potomac basin. All of Washington, D.C., the nation's
capital city, also lies within the watershed. The 1859 siege of
Harper's Ferry at the river's
confluence with the
Shenandoah was a precursor to numerous epic battles of the
American Civil War in and around the Potomac and its tributaries. General
Robert E. Lee crossed the river, thereby invading the North and threatening Washington, D.C. twice in campaigns climaxing in the battles of
Antietam and
Gettysburg.
The
Patowmack Canal was intended by George Washington to connect the
Tidewater near
Georgetown with
Cumberland, Maryland. Started in 1785, it wasn't completed until 1802. Financial troubles closed the
canal in 1830. The
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal operated along the banks of the Potomac in Maryland from 1850 to 1924 and also connected Cumberland to Washington, D.C. This allowed freight to be transported around the
rapids known as the
Great Falls of the Potomac River, as well as many other, smaller rapids.
With increasing
mining and
agriculture upstream and urban
sewage and
runoff downstream, the
water quality of the Potomac River deteriorated. This created conditions of severe
eutrophication. It is said that President
Abraham Lincoln used to escape to the highlands on summer nights to escape the river's stench. In the 1960s, with dense green
algal blooms covering the river's surface, President
Lyndon Johnson declared the river "a national disgrace" and set in motion a long-term effort to reduce sewage pollution and restore the beauty and ecology of this historic river. By the end of the 20th century, there was notable success, as massive algal blooms vanished and recreational fishing and boating rebounded. Still, the aquatic
habitat of the Potomac River and its tributaries remain vulnerable to eutrophication,
heavy metals,
pesticides and other toxic chemicals, over-fishing,
alien species, and
pathogens associated with
fecal coliform bacteria and
shellfish diseases. On
November 13,
2007, environmental group the Potomac Conservancy issued the river a grade of "D-plus", citing high levels of pollution and reports of "intersex" fish.
The Potomac was designated as one of the
American Heritage Rivers in 1997.
Political dividing point
Some commentators have suggested that, as the
Mason-Dixon line demarcated the
Northern United States from the
Southern United States during the 19th century, so the Potomac River has come to separate the
Blue states from the Red States in the 21st century United States.
Since 2000, the river has symbolized a political border between
Democratic Maryland and
Republican Virginia.
As of 2005, no Red State lies above the Potomac River on the Eastern Seaboard, and no Blue state lies below it. Since 2000, West Virginia has gone to the Republican presidential candidate, a rarity for the historically Democratic state. Despite its claimed status as a political buffer between the Blue and the Red, the Potomac hasn't gained the same kind of notoriety or fame as the Mason-Dixon line as a cultural feature.
Legal issues
For 400 years Maryland and Virginia have disputed control of the Potomac and its North Branch, since both states' original colonial charters grant the entire river rather than half of it as is normally the case with boundary rivers. In its first state
constitution adopted in 1776, Virginia ceded its claim to the entire river but reserved free use of it, an act disputed by Maryland. Both states acceded to the Compact of 1785 and the 1877 Black-Jenkins Award which grants Maryland the river bank-to-bank from the low water mark on the Virginia side, while permitting Virginia full riparian rights short of obstructing navigation.
From 1957 to 1996, the Maryland Department of the Environment (MDE) routinely issued permits applied for by Virginia entities concerning use of the Potomac, however, in 1996 the MDE denied a permit applied for by the
Fairfax County Water Authority to build a water intake valve 725 feet (220 m) offshore, citing potential harm to Maryland's interests by an increase in Virginia sprawl caused by the project. After years of failed appeals within the Maryland government's appeal processes, in 2000 Virginia took the case to the
Supreme Court of the United States, which exercises original jurisdiction in cases between two states. Maryland claimed Virginia lost its riparian rights by acquiescing to MDE's permit process for 63 years (MDE began its permit process in 1933). A Special Master appointed by the Supreme Court to investigate recommended the case be settled in favor of Virginia, citing the language in the 1785 Compact and the 1877 Award. On
December 9,
2003, the Court agreed in a 7-2 decision.
Virginia v. Maryland, 124 S.Ct. 598.
The original charters are silent as to which branch from the upper Potomac serves as the boundary, but this was settled by the 1785 Compact. When West Virginia seceded from Virginia in 1863, the question of West Virginia's succession in title to the lands between the branches of the river was raised, as well as title to the river itself. Claims by Maryland to West Virginia land north of the South Branch (all of
Mineral and
Grant Counties and parts of
Hampshire,
Hardy,
Tucker and
Pendleton Counties) and by West Virginia to the Potomac's high water mark were rejected by the Supreme Court in two separate decisions in 1910.
State of Md. v. State of W.Va., 217 U.S. 1 State of Md. v. State of W.Va., 217 U.S. 577
Conservation
As a result of the damaging floods of 1936 and 1937, the
Army Corps of Engineers proposed a series of dams that were intended to regulate the river and to provide a more reliable water supply. One dam was to be built at Little Falls, backing its pool up to Great Falls. Just above Great Falls, a much larger dam was proposed whose reservoir would extend to Harpers Ferry. Several other dams were proposed on the Potomac and its tributaries. When detailed studies were issued by the Army Corps of Engineers in the 1950's, they met sustained opposition, led by
US Supreme Court Chief Justice
William O. Douglas, resulting in the plans' abandonment. The only project that did get built was
Jennings Randolph Lake on the North Branch.
North Branch Potomac River
The source of the
North Branch Potomac River is at the
Fairfax Stone located at the junction of
Grant,
Tucker and
Preston counties in West Virginia.
From the Fairfax Stone, the North Branch Potomac River flows 27 miles to the man-made
Jennings Randolph Lake, an
impoundment designed for flood control. Below the dam, the North Branch cuts a serpentine path through the eastern Allegheny Mountains. First, it flows northeast by the communities of
Bloomington,
Luke, and
Westernport in Maryland and then on by
Keyser, West Virginia to
Cumberland, Maryland. At Cumberland, the river turns southeast. It is joined by the South Branch between
Green Spring and
South Branch Depot, West Virginia from whence it flows past
Hancock, Maryland and turns southeast once more on its way toward
Washington, D.C., and the
Chesapeake Bay.
North Branch tributaries
Tributaries are listed in order from the source of the North Branch Potomac River to its mouth.
South Branch Potomac River
The
South Branch Potomac River has its
headwaters in northwestern
Highland County, Virginia near
Hightown along the eastern edge of the
Allegheny Front. The mouth of the South Branch lies east of
Green Spring in
Hampshire County, West Virginia where it meets the
North Branch Potomac River to form the Potomac. A
topographic map of the confluence of the North and South Branches can be viewed
here.
South Branch nomenclature
Early pioneer sources claim that the indigenous
Native Americans of the region referred to the South Branch Potomac River as the
Wappatomaka. Other variants of this name throughout the river's history were
South Branch of Potowmac River,
South Branch of the Potowmac River,
South Fork Potomac River,
Wapacomo River,
Wapocomo River,
Wappacoma River,
Wappatomaka River, and
Wappatomica River.
Places settled in the South Branch valley bearing variants of "Wappatomaka" include
Wappacoma plantation built in 1773 and the
unincorporated hamlet of
Wappocomo (sometimes spelled Wapocomo) at
Hanging Rocks, both north of
Romney on
West Virginia Route 28.
South Branch headwaters and course
The exact location of the South Branch's source is northwest of Hightown along Parkersburg Pike (
U.S. Route 250) on the eastern side of Lantz Mountain (3,934 ft) in Highland County. From Hightown, the South Branch is a small meandering
stream that flows northeast along Crab Bottom Road through the communities of
New Hampden and Crab Bottom. At Forks of Waters, the South Branch joins with Strait Creek and flows north across the Virginia/West Virginia border into
Pendleton County. The river then travels on a northeastern course along the western side of Jack Mountain (4,045 ft), followed by Sandy Ridge (2,297 ft) along
U.S. Route 220. North of the confluence of the South Branch with Smith Creek, the river flows along Town Mountain (2,848 ft) around
Franklin at the junction of U.S. Route 220 and
U.S. Route 33. After Franklin, the South Branch continues north through the
Monongahela National Forest to
Upper Tract where it joins with three sizeable streams: Reeds Creek, Mill Run, and Deer Run. Between Big Mountain (2,582 ft) and Cave Mountain (2,821 ft), the South Branch bends around the Eagle Rock (1,483 ft) outcrop and continues its flow northward into
Grant County. Into Grant, the South Branch follows the western side of Cave Mountain until its confluence with the
North Fork at
Cabins, where it flows east to
Petersburg. What has been described as "one of the most beautiful views in all of West Virginia" - the cliffs of
North Fork Mountain (about 100 yards south of Smoke Hole Road, south of Cabins, WV) called "Shelby's Cliffs" by the locals can be seen on the South Branch. At Petersburg, the South Branch is joined with the
South Branch Valley Railroad, which it parallels until its mouth at
Green Spring.
In its eastern course from Petersburg into
Hardy County, the South Branch becomes more navigable allowing for
canoes and smaller river vessels. The river splits and forms a series of large islands while it heads northeast to
Moorefield. At Moorefield, the South Branch is joined by the
South Fork South Branch Potomac River and runs north to
Old Fields where it's fed by Anderson Run and Stony Run. At
McNeill, the South Branch flows into
the Trough where it's bound to its west by
Mill Creek Mountain (2,119 ft) and to its east by Sawmill Ridge (1,644 ft). This area is the habitat to endangered
bald eagles. The Trough passes into
Hampshire County and ends at its confluence with Sawmill Run south of
Glebe and
Sector. The South Branch continues north parallel to
South Branch River Road (
County Route 8) toward
Romney with a number of historic plantation farms adjoining it. En route to Romney, the river is fed by Buffalo Run,
Mill Run, McDowell Run, and
Mill Creek at
Vanderlip. The South Branch is traversed by the
Northwestern Turnpike (
U.S. Route 50) and joined by Sulphur Spring Run where it forms
Valley View Island to the west of town. Flowing north of Romney, the river still follows the eastern side of Mill Creek Mountain until it creates a horseshoe bend at
Wappocomo's
Hanging Rocks around the George W. Washington plantation,
Ridgedale. To the west of
Three Churches on the western side of
South Branch Mountain, 3,028 feet (923 m), the South Branch creates a series of bends and flows to the northeast by
Springfield through Blue's Ford. After another horseshoe bend, the South Branch flows under the old
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad mainline between
Green Spring and
South Branch Depot, and joins the North Branch to form the Potomac.
South Branch tributaries
Big Run (West Virginia)
Buffalo Creek (West Virginia)
Lunice Creek (West Virginia)
Mill Creek (West Virginia)
Mill Run (West Virginia)
North Fork South Branch Potomac River (West Virginia)
South Fork South Branch Potomac River (West Virginia/Virginia)
North Fork South Branch Potomac River
The North Fork South Branch Potomac River forms just north of the Virginia/West Virginia border in Pendleton County at the confluence of the Laurel Fork and Straight Fork along Big Mountain (3,881 ft). From Circleville, the North Fork flows northeast through Pendleton County between the Fore Knobs (2,949 ft) to its west and the River Knobs, 2,490 feet (759 m) to its east. At Seneca Rocks, the North Fork is met by Seneca Creek. From Seneca Rocks, the North Fork continues to flow northeast along the western edge of North Fork Mountain 3,389 feet (1033 m) into Grant County. One of the most beautiful views in all of West Virginia is looking up at the cliffs of North Fork Mountain (about 100 yards south of Smoke Hole Road, south of Cabins, WV) called "Shelby's Cliffs" by the locals. Flowing east through North Fork Gap, the North Fork joins the South Branch Potomac at the town of Cabins, west of Petersburg.
South Fork South Branch Potomac River
The South Fork South Branch Potomac River forms just north of U.S. Route 250 in Highland County, Virginia near Head Waters and flows 55 miles (89 km) north-northeastward to the South Branch Potomac River at Moorefield in Hardy County, West Virginia. From 1896 to 1929, it was briefly named the Moorefield River by the Board on Geographic Names to avoid confusion with the South Branch.
Upper Potomac River
This stretch encompasses the stretch of the Potomac River from the confluence of the North and South Branches to the Great Falls of the Potomac River at Great Falls, Virginia.
Upper Potomac tributaries
Above the fall-line
Tidal Potomac River
The Tidal or Lower Potomac River lies below the fall line. This stretch encompasses the Potomac from about one mile (2 km) below the Washington, DC - Montgomery County, MD line, just below the Little Falls of the Potomac River where the tidal river begins, to the Chesapeake Bay.
Tidal Potomac tributaries
Donaldson Run (Virginia)
Windy Run (Virginia)
Spout Run (Virginia)
Rock Creek (District of Columbia/Maryland)
Tiber Creek (District of Columbia) (paved over)
Rocky Run (Virginia) (paved over)
Washington Channel (District of Columbia)
Anacostia River (District of Columbia/Maryland)
Further Information
Get more info on 'Potomac River'.
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